Recently, I had the chance to bring home a small yet precious gastronomic treasure consisting of a few black truffles, freshly arrived from Arad. However, the fascination of their taste would not have been complete without a cultural-gastronomic study on this truly captivating subject. So, after a few simple yet ecstatically flavorful specialties in which I let the truffles shine, I found myself digging through the mists of time and the shelves of the library to uncover their story.
WHAT'S THE STORY?
In ancient times, people believed that truffles were born from thunder and lightning and had the power to ward off demons. Today, they are considered the diamonds of gastronomy: their shape, but especially their price, are what brings them closer to precious stones. They bring a unique pleasure to anyone who tries them, just as they have done for hundreds and even thousands of years. From royal households to Michelin-starred restaurants, truffles have always held a place of honor in sophisticated menus, as an expression of indulgence for those who taste them and culinary excellence for those who prepare them.
"In the end, truffles are truly the diamonds of gastronomy." (Jean Brillat-Savarin)
Simple and delicious, they are best paired with equally simple products that allow them to showcase their intense fragrance and aroma: potatoes, eggs, pasta, rice. However, they are by no means a mere decorative element in a dish's conception, as one might interpret; on the contrary, according to the great Joel Robuchon, they are even "the ingredient of honor."
TYPES OF TRUFFLES
Truffles are undoubtedly one of the crowning elements of French gastronomy, and together with foie gras and caviar, they form the holy trinity of "luxury" ingredients. The areas famous for truffle production are primarily in France, but they can also be found in smaller quantities and more restricted areas in Italy and Spain. The winter season, which lasts from November to March and peaks in January, is, according to experts, the one that offers the most prized truffles.
There are over a hundred types of truffles, but only a few can be used in gastronomy, making them even more valuable: tuber melanosporum (black truffle), tuber aestivum (summer truffle), tuber uncinatum (also known as Burgundy truffle), and tuber magnatum (Italian white truffle, the queen of truffles, the most expensive and valuable of them all). Summer truffles are also among the sought-after and used in gastronomy, but unlike the others, they are relatively easy to find, and their fragrance is not as pronounced as that of winter truffles, which also makes their price lower compared to the other types of truffles.
In terms of size, truffles range from the size of a walnut to that of an orange, with an exterior that is rather inelegant and unremarkable, more wrinkled and unappealing. However, the interior stands out for its nobility and uniqueness, gathering within it, like in a magical crucible, the aromas of damp earth, oak roots where they dwell, and the foggy November mornings when hunters begin their quest for black diamonds.
TRUFFLE HUNTING
Traditionally, truffle hunting is done with pigs, although it is now common practice to hunt with dogs. The reasons are obvious: pigs lack the discretion of dogs and, with their natural greed, tend to eat the truffles they find before the hunters even have a chance to touch them. Most truffle hunters prefer female dogs, as they have a more developed sense of smell than males, which increases their chances of finding hidden treasures.
HOW TO STORE TRUFFLES AFTER HUNTING
A truffle contains about 73% water, which leads to a loss of 5% of its weight each day through evaporation. Therefore, it is best stored in an airtight container, either with rice or pasta, or among eggs, which will absorb the truffles' fragrance. As with any fresh product, it is preferable to consume truffles within three to four days to a week after purchase. However, if you store them longer, it's a good idea to hydrate them with a bit of truffle-infused oil when using them in dishes. This way, they will regain their original strong aroma and fragrance.
Today, truffles are also preserved in various forms to keep them for as long as possible. This was not possible until 1810, when Frenchman Nicolas Appert discovered the method of preserving food by boiling it in the containers where it had been stored. Even today, on labels of preserved truffles, we find the mention "extrait par Appertisation," referring to Appert's invention.
"Telling the story of truffles is telling the entire history of civilization." (Alexandre Dumas, Le Grand Dictionnaire de Cuisine)
IN GASTRONOMY
... they have their special place and make a perfect pairing with butter, their mushroom cousins, pasta, rice, potatoes, artichokes, pumpkins, or chestnuts. It is recommended that black truffles not be cooked but served as they are in combinations that highlight them. 10 grams per person makes a generous portion. Meats (chicken, beef) and seafood (scallops, oysters) have also been elevated in various dishes through the use of truffles. Some chefs even use them to ennoble certain desserts, such as panna cotta, ice cream, or macarons. However, regardless of their use, great gastronomes have always agreed on the exciting effect of truffles. Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin elegantly confessed that "truffles are a powerful aphrodisiac, and under certain circumstances, they can make women better and men more amiable."
Certainly, for gastronomy lovers, the mere mention of the name or the sight of these little black diamonds already serves as an intense prelude to the culinary ecstasy they will experience when preparing dishes enriched with truffles. There is much to be said about their fascinating history. As for the recipes I used them in, they deserve special attention. Both the history and the recipes of truffles will be the focus of two upcoming articles.
Source:Patricia Wells - Simply Truffles. Recipes and Stories that Capture the Essence of The Black Diamond. Foreword by Joel Robuchon.
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