We all know it. So well-known, in fact, that in Austria, the Viennese Schnitzel, a national symbol, is legally protected, meaning that an authentic Wiener Schnitzel must be made exclusively from veal. The pork version, which is also popular, is called Wiener Schnitzel Art to distinguish it from the original. Both are typically served with buttery parsley potatoes and a side salad.
As for the origins of the Schnitzel, it’s believed to have been created in northern Italy, specifically in Milan, inspired by cotoletta alla milanese. The recipe is thought to have reached Austria in the 15th or 16th century. Another theory suggests that Schnitzel was brought to Austria even later, in 1857, by Field Marshal Radetzky, who had spent considerable time in Italy and “imported” the recipe.
However, neither of these hypotheses has been fully confirmed by historians. What is certain is that the term “Wiener Schnitzel” dates back to the mid-19th century when it was first mentioned in a cookbook.
Interestingly, there’s also a theory that the method of using breadcrumbs and frying food in hot oil was already widely used in Austrian cuisine long before Schnitzel appeared. This technique was particularly common in dishes like Backhendl, which used the same method as early as 1719. Thus, it’s assumed that the name “Wiener Schnitzel” started being used in the 19th century as a reference to Wiener Backhendl, with the preparation method being the most important element, rather than the dish itself.
Historically speaking, the practice of tenderizing meat and frying it in oil dates back to ancient times, to the Romans. Culinary history shows that this method continued through the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, particularly in northern Italy, specifically Milan—where the theories on Schnitzel's origin seem to converge.
Today, there are countless variations of Schnitzel derived from the original dish—pork, chicken, and even turkey versions exist. However, Viennese locals take pride in the original version made from veal, which they consider the authentic Schnitzel. The key, they say, lies in using only the finest and freshest ingredients.
Veal cutlets are usually placed between sheets of plastic wrap and tenderized with a meat mallet as much as possible. Then, the meat is seasoned with salt and pepper, dredged in flour, dipped in fresh breadcrumbs, and fried until golden in oil or melted butter.
When discussing Schnitzel as a national symbol, we must also mention one of Vienna’s culinary landmarks—Figlmuller, a restaurant famous for serving the largest Schnitzels in the city, made using a century-old recipe. If you want to enjoy lunch or dinner at Figlmuller, it’s best to make a reservation, as the lines outside the restaurant are often quite long.
However, if you find yourself, as I did, unable to secure a table at Figlmuller, right across the street is Gutenberg, a traditional café-restaurant with a warm atmosphere, frequented more by locals than tourists (who flock to Figlmuller). Here, you’ll be welcomed by gracious, elegant servers who will serve you a delightful Schnitzel, pair it with a blonde beer, and cheerfully wish you “Guten Appetit!” And in that moment, you’ll learn the word Wahnsinn, which means “amazing!”
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