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THE HISTORY OF GASTRONOMY IN 5 BOOKS



For many people, gastronomy simply means recipes and culinary feasts. However, for others, it encompasses much more: it’s about stories, history, the past and the future. It signifies identity and cultural heritage. It involves exploring different spaces and times, unique ingredients, and remarkable figures who have changed the world through their creativity. I count myself among those who believe that behind every recipe lies a journey through time, with each dish surrounded by delightful stories that orbit around it like satellites. For all those who share this vision, I’ve put together a short yet relevant list of books that I would recommend to anyone interested in food culture and just starting out on their journey.


1. APICIUS – Cooking and Dining in Imperial Rome


To delve into the history of gastronomy, we must start with ancient times, where only one book has survived to this day. Just one, but a renowned one, as it is considered the oldest cookbook in the world. I’m referring to De Re Coquinaria, attributed to M. Gavius Apicius. This work is composed of ten volumes that illustrate how people cooked and dined in the Roman Empire—featuring surprising recipes and long-lost ingredients, such as garum sauce, along with gastronomic principles, techniques, and preparation instructions. Apicius's legacy forms the foundation of European gastronomy; everything essentially begins with him. .


2. COOKING FOR KINGS: The Life of Antonin Careme, the First Celebrity Chef


A true gastronomic royalty, the biography of the man dubbed the Chef of Kings and King of Chefs, written by Ian Kelly, is a must-read for any food history enthusiast. You can't be interested in gastronomy or pursue a culinary career without knowing who Careme was, Europe's first celebrity chef. Talleyrand, Napoleon, George IV, Tsar Alexander I, the Viennese Court, the British Embassy, Lord Stewart, Baron Rothschild—all of them wanted their events organized by Careme and paid handsomely to enjoy his impressive dishes at their tables. Beyond being their cook, Careme was a visionary, and his contributions to the evolution of gastronomy were fundamental. His successors merely refined what he developed. As Talleyrand, his first patron, said: “Careme is the one who taught us how to eat.”


3. ESCOFFIER’S CULINARY GUIDE


Nearly a century after Careme, Georges Auguste Escoffier continued his work with a more modern approach, suitable for his time and the new expectations of clients. Where Careme invented, Escoffier simplified and refined, establishing French gastronomy as the absolute standard. His partnership with Cesar Ritz would forever change the hospitality industry and fine dining: from the meticulous organization of kitchen brigades to menus designed to constantly surprise and the à la carte service, first introduced at the Carlton Hotel by Escoffier. He also transformed the status of chefs, emphasizing aspects like their education, attire, and behavior both in and out of the kitchen, turning them into true ambassadors of culinary art.


4. LAROUSSE GASTRONOMIQUE


If Escoffier were a god of the kitchen, then Larousse Gastronomique would be the culinary Bible. Initially created by Prosper Montagne, whom Escoffier noted was clearly inspired by his Culinary Guide, Larousse Gastronomique is a fundamental resource for histories of dishes, culinary terms, basic techniques, essential ingredients, preservation and preparation instructions, biographies of significant figures in gastronomy, and—last but not least—almost any recipe you can think of. The first edition of Larousse Gastronomique was published in 1938, and since then, through numerous revised and expanded editions, it has remained one of the most important references in the culinary world. Essentially, for anyone seeking to learn the history of a particular dish, Larousse Gastronomique is the first stop.


5. DUMAS’S GRAND DICTIONARY OF CUISINE


An incredibly valuable gastronomic resource, especially if acquired in an edition close to the original version published in 1873, complete with comprehensive information. More of a guide than a manual, Le Grand Dictionnaire de Cuisine was Dumas’s labor of love—and his last, as he wished to conclude his writing career with a book dedicated to his greatest passion: gastronomy. However, his Grand Dictionary is more than just a book. Although today the recipes, techniques, utensils, ingredients, or instructions mentioned in Dumas's dictionary may seem outdated (Alain Ducasse proposed a modern adaptation of some), what truly matters are the myriad stories accompanying them, making this dictionary a must-have. For Dumas, gastronomy is undeniably an art, and its essence lies in creativity. A true bon vivant, he viewed food as a celebration of life, the joy of storytelling, discovery, and sharing. A remarkable literary and gastronomic feast—how else could it be, coming from a great storyteller?

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