While some might find snails to be a rather unusual delicacy, they are actually among the oldest foods in the world. Scientists have evidence that escargots were part of the diet of homo sapiens as far back as 30,000 years ago, particularly along the Mediterranean coasts of North Africa, France, Italy, and Spain. The ancients also enjoyed snails; Apicius, considered the oldest cookbook in existence, includes several recipes featuring them, indicating that the Romans appreciated this dish, which has endured throughout history. During the Middle Ages, they were often served grilled or braised. In 1814, the French politician Talleyrand requested that his chef, Antonin Carême, serve snails during a dinner with the Russian Tsar Alexander I. Carême created a recipe featuring butter, parsley, and garlic, which would become a classic: escargots à la Bourguignonne. Later, in 1873, snails were also mentioned in Alexandre Dumas's Grand Dictionnaire de Cuisine. Today, snails, typically prepared simply with butter, garlic, and parsley, have not only become a classic of French cuisine but also a symbol of Parisian bistros. Only those who have tried them know just how delicious they can be, and those brave enough to take the plunge will surely be rewarded with a pleasure they’ll want to revisit!
A JOURNEY THROUGH FLAVOR:
Helix Pomatia and Helix Aspersa are the recommended snail varieties for culinary use—more friendly referred to as Burgundy escargots and petit-gris, depending on their size. In France, they are most often sold canned, meaning someone has already done the work of selecting and boiling them for several hours in a court bouillon, so all you need to do is rinse them under cold water and dry them. Snail shells are also available by the dozen if your recipe calls for them. The good news is they are reusable after being washed and cleaned post-serving.
Perhaps the most famous recipe for snails is escargots à la Bourguignonne, where a quantity of butter is mixed with chopped parsley, minced garlic, salt, and pepper, and sometimes a splash of wine or brandy, creating a delightful paste. A teaspoon of this mixture is placed inside each snail shell, followed by a snail, and then topped with more of the butter mixture until the shell is full. Once filled, the snails can be frozen, but who has the patience to resist enjoying them immediately? After filling, the snails require just 10 minutes in a preheated oven before they’re ready to serve. Don’t forget to pair them with a well-chilled glass of Chardonnay and some good bread to soak up the melted butter—a true indulgence!
TIPS:
Generally, snails are prepared in a special oven-safe dish with 6 or 12 cavities for the shells. However, if you don’t have one, snails can also be comfortably placed on a bed of salt. Traditionally, they are served alongside a small fork and a special picking tool to extract the snails from their shells, but if you lack these, a simple toothpick will do just fine. A serving of 6 snails makes for a delightful appetizer, while 12 can easily stand as a main course. Wine, of course, is essential for such a savory Parisian adventure. Santé!
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