A grown-up's joy: for the first time in Romania, I found poulet de Bresse, the most famous chicken in the world. In an instant, just seeing it transported me back to Paris, on a dreary winter’s day, no snow in sight, at the butcher shop in Marché des Enfants Rouges, where the butcher artistically prepared the most beautiful poulet de Bresse I had ever seen, carefully chosen by me. With the same serious demeanor, he added as he wrapped it up, “Madame, I’ve included the liver in the package—it’s délicieux.”
I cooked it on New Year’s Eve, and today, like a scene straight out of Proust, the memory resurfaced as I meticulously slipped fine slices of Romanian summer truffles under the skin of my French chicken. The firm yet delicate and tender meat, the perfectly crisp skin, and the fragrant truffle slices all came together to create another set of memories etched in my taste and emotional memory. For that evening, I was once again in Paris, in spirit and in smile—what better proof that the simplest joys are the ones that make the world more beautiful, reminding us that we are nothing more than big children with new kinds of toys?
Bresse Chicken – A Protected Designation of Origin Product
Bresse chicken (or volaille de Bresse) is one of those products with a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO), ensuring that only chickens from the Gauloise Blanche breed, raised in a specific region under strict conditions, can bear the name poulet de Bresse. These pristine white chickens, with their vibrant red crests, are raised free-range on grass, fed cereals, and whatever they "hunt" themselves, resulting in uniquely flavorful meat—both firm and succulent.
To guarantee authenticity, specific markers are used: a true Bresse chicken will always carry a leg band with the authorized farmer’s name, a seal, and the distinct label featuring the colors of the French flag. For the French, these aren’t just symbols of quality—they’re almost like a noble coat of arms. 🙂
Labeling standards go even further. Among the Bresse products, poulet de Bresse is the most famous worldwide. It is pasture-raised for four months and weighs up to 1.3 kg. The volaille de Bresse (a slightly larger bird) is raised for five months, weighing at least 1.8 kg. Both are incredibly flavorful. Alongside chickens, Bresse also produces ducks and capons, the latter often reserved for grand holiday meals.
How I Prepared It
There are countless recipes designed to highlight the refined and flavorful white meat of the Bresse chicken, which is undeniably a premium product, favored by high-level chefs around the world. However, I chose to prepare it in a way that honors the simplicity with which it is raised. I simply stuffed it with onion, garlic, a few lemon wedges, and a bouquet of aromatic herbs. I also slipped slices of Romanian truffles under the skin and seasoned it with Maldon salt crystals and freshly ground Tellicherry pepper.
I roasted it slowly, just as it was raised: gently. At 150°C (300°F) in a preheated oven, almost as if for a confit, the chicken developed a beautiful golden hue, the skin turned perfectly crispy, and the meat—just as I remembered from Paris—was flavorful and satisfying, with a superb balance. It took about two and a half hours, during which I prepared an aligot (a mashed potato dish enriched with grated cheese and a hint of garlic) and a mushroom sauce that, in itself, was an indulgence and complemented the entire meal wonderfully. The wait was more than worth it—most of all, rewarded with a perfect taste, worthy of a perfect memory.
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